bump for any help guys!!
Ok guys I need new brakes and was wondering what rotors and pads you guys recommended? I would like a cross drilled and slotted rotor, but nothing too fancy..aka no Wilwood, Bear kit etc, just slotted rotors and some decent pads. Any suggestions or reviews of what you guys have would be awesome.
I got a set of d/s rotors and pads off ebay for 180 shipped. They look awesome and they are slightly better than stock.
OEM rotors - nothing else.
porterfield pads or even the Hawks are great pads
the stock braking system in our cars is pretty damn good.
if you feel like you need more stopping power though just get better pads.
there's no real point with getting "fancy" rotors as better pads will just chew them up anyways.
hell maybe howard will chime in... he's the master brake destroyer. :D
i'll tell you what he'll say.
"keep the OEM rotors and get better pads"![]()
you're probably right.
hell, howard gets other people's used rotors for his track days, then throws them away.![]()
what about experiences with drilled and slotted and upgraded pads? or is it just better again to stay oem and liek Hawk pads? Also what is the best place to buy.. S&P for oem?
i have drilled rotors now. They dont give you that much more than stock. its not worth the extra cash.
save your money. oe is fine.
if you feel like stopping better, get better tires.
"keep the OE rotors and get better tires". next get better pads.
yes, my track rotors last me 5 days...then toss.
hey howard.
brake fade.
is it primarily a fluid problem with our cars or the pads. that's what killed me at the Raceway Park track day.
i would have to guess/say pad.
a good chance you reached heat limit of the OE pad.
you should also ask yourself, when was the last time you replaced/bled the system. brake fluid is hygroscopic.
i've had no experience with the stock rubber lines and heat, since i replaced mine before any track usage. i did not want to take more chances that i could help control.
the system can take heat, but that's mostly from the ability of the choice in pad to take the heat, and still work effectively--as well as a thick rotor to dissipate the heat. i don't think i've been able to boil the fluid yet...but my calipers are burnt and the pistons are charred.
Last edited by htheduck; 07-17-08 at 12:30 PM.
original everything on the car still for the braking system.
been contemplating doing a total fluid replacement on the car anyways...
brakes
coolant
trans
ok guys where would you say is the best place to get oem pads and rotors other than get killed at the dealership?



i got pads from my work. the BENDIX pads. there pretty good. there semi-metallics and even in the rear i feel a good difference
ebay. 180 for all four drilled/slotted with pads. looks great, thats about all u get outta them, no real performance.
if u are looking for value, go with the above recommendation.
if you are looking for consistent braking functionality: bleed and/or replace w/fresh fluid
if you are looking for improved braking characteristics: perform above task and better tires
one step more above that: better pads
one more step above that: you need to define what your negative braking issues are before anyone can suggest: fade? heat? bias? what conditions?
Last edited by htheduck; 07-18-08 at 08:14 PM.
i can also take pics if u wanna see wat they look like
post the ebay link that has a pic. it's quicker.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODGE...spagenameZWDVW
only prob i had is the rear set of pads are a lil different. 2 mins on a grinder took care of that
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