next mod to fix my problem?

[phillysrt4]

For those of you who have been following my crane 12 thread:

http://www.srt-4mation.com/showthread.php?t=3519

You see that I get a consistent dip in my torque graphs which correlates to boost being pulled and more fuel being dumped in to lower the AF ratio. I have had the system checked for leaks, even putting t-bolt clamps on all the lines, and checked to make sure the vacum lines are tied off. However, it seems that my car under boost is "noisier" than wvumike's care under similar conditions, and IIRC he too has the mopar BOV, which indicates to me that my BOV is a POS and needs replacing ASAP.

However, I'm not 100% convinced that there is a leak there. Hence the poll attached. Please explain your vote. Thanks.

EDIT - One other thing... I get a lot of flutter as the boost climbs until I'm over about 10 lbs. Could my WGA be set a little too tight?

[DrEdSrT4]

dude just CAN that POS rice plate and get hardpipes with a HKS or Greddy bov.. they are great
also get a 3" DP and quit choking your turbo!

[phillysrt4]

Hmmm ive been looking at a few hardpipe and BOV combos from my usual parts suppliers and I'm not finding a relatively cheap combination using either of those two BOV's. The only thing that MIGHT be in my budget right now is the WeaponR pressure pipe with TurboXS RFL blowoffvalve for $250.00. What do you think of that combination?

[psi chick]

turboxs rfl = pos

[phillysrt4]

hmmm... I guess I'll just have to live with it until summer then :(

[phillysrt4]

hmmm seems revitup has the AGP tube for 45.00 already flanged for the greddy BOV. thats something i might be able to budget...

[Vade46]

If $ is a problem right now you should get the PTP spring for the Mopar BOV.

[NYYDYNASTY]

turboxs rfl = posRFL rules!!

:cool:

[Vade46]

And, dont you have stage 2 w/ toys? How would you be able to use a boost controller? I thought you have to let the PCM control boost for everything to funtion with the toys.

[phillysrt4]

If $ is a problem right now you should get the PTP spring for the Mopar BOV.

already have it in. It helped at first but I think my stage computer has compensated and I'm back to the flutter and boost drop in the curves. I'm starting to think my mopar BOV is poorly machined or something.


And, dont you have stage 2 w/ toys? How would you be able to use a boost controller? I thought you have to let the PCM control boost for everything to funtion with the toys.

I always leave the DAB on 3 anyway :) so I dont know how much of an issue a boost controller would be.

This problem really has me stumped and I dont want to chase good money after bad. If its something inherent in the product then fine, but I dont see other dyno charts looking that way from others who have the stage 2 kit installed.

[Nolimits]

Those cam's are just begging for more air to be let into them, open that airflow up! Get a Throttle Body and Port and Polished Intake, start leaning that out and see huge gains. Your A/F ratio really takes a dive after that 4500 mark, if you get a high 11:1 or even 12:1 A/F ratio towards redline, your gonna make awesome power.

[SPECJ]

Why are you ignoring the obvious... you need better fuel Mgt. Buy an e-manage or a dtec and get your car tuned. With a piggyback you can still tune for your power loss due to excess boost by increasing timing or removing fuel. By walking around the problem by buying a new BOV w/pipes, then probably a IC, then a TB, etc... get the fuel computer first to get the car running strong.

[phillysrt4]

you're right... :( this boost sag is just really pissing me off and no one else seems to have this problem on s2's

[AeRo]

Im with spec, you need to control your A/F's with Dtech or SAFC or something, that way you wont be pulling timing up top and you will see more gains from the cams! But out of your options I would definatly say get a hard pipe w/type S or HKS, and block off the stock surge valve.

[phillysrt4]

well well well... guess what? when I had the cam install done, they forgot to re-tie the black line going to the WGA. So I tied it off at the two points on the WGA side and BAM! Flutter is almost nonexistent and the boost holds though the trouble zone.

Only problem now (oy!) is that right where it would pull the boost, I get a really bad stumble/misfire condition. Looks like I'm too agressive on my cams and I have to pull it back a little.

A costly mistake WRT dyno tuning time, but if you wanna play you gotta pay, no?

[phillysrt4]

update - I dialed the cams back to a less agressive setting, and after taking it for a few test drives the stumbling resolved for a few runs, but when a friend got his 03/04 cobra so I could race him, it started to stumble a little again.

I noticed that I was low on fuel when the stumbling started and as I got closer and closer to a blinking fuel light the stumbling seemed to kick in at lower and lower RPMs under WOT. could this be a bad fuel pump?

Either way, I appreciate all your suggestions. I think I have a game plan when finances allow the next round of mods

[DrEdSrT4]

what do you mean stumble? is it jumpy? i wouldnt go straight for a bad fuel pump.. could just be bad plugs

[SPECJ]

could be a bad pump/regulator. I would reset the PCM and allow it to readjust for everything. After about 50 miles the car gets a good idea of your low and high fuel trims. If it was used to running rich at 2000 rpms and now because you fixed your problem, it may run stoich... your car will try to overcompensate and run you lean.... blah blah... reset the ECU

[DrEdSrT4]

reseting fixes everything :lol: